Posted by
Easy WoodCraft on
Apr 4, 2016
Before delving into the wide variety of saws available and their uses, it's important first to understand the terms used to describe saws, their teeth, and the cutting action.
Anatomy of a handsaw
Every saw has at least two parts: the blade and a handle. Each blade generally has a toe (the end farthest from the handle) and a heel (the end closest to the handle). Handles may be open or closed (
see Comparative Lengths), intricate or simple, and be made of wood, metal, plastic, or a combination of these.
Saw teeth
For the most part, the configuration of the saw teeth will define whether the saw is designed to cut with the grain or against the grain. Teeth designed to cut with the grain are rip teeth, and are sharpened flat on the top to create a planing or chiseling action. Crosscut teeth, on the other hand, are sharpened with fine points on the ends to act as small knives to cleanly sever the cross-grain wood fibers. Some saws are sharpened as sort of a hybrid, intended to be used for both cross-cutting and ripping. These saws do a reasonable job, but not nearly as good as the individual saws.
Teeth per inch
In addition to how a saw blade is sharpened, the number of teeth per inch will have a great impact on the performance of the saw. Generally, the greater the number of teeth, the finer the cut, and the longer it'll take to make the cut. There are two common systems used to describe this: teeth per inch and points per inch. Points per inch includes the teeth at each point, whereas teeth per inch doesn't a blade with 8 points per inch will have 7 teeth per inch.
Kerf versus set
Another important characteristic of a saw blade is its set. Set is the amount each tooth is bent out from the saw blade. Without set, the blade would quickly bind in the kerf. Coarse cutting saws (such as the rip saw) generally have a wider set than a finer cutting saw. This allows for plenty of clearance between the blade and the wall of the kerf Aggressively set teeth are also commonly used on saws intended to cut green or wet wood. Here again, the wider set provides much needed chip clearance.
Tapered blades
Another common method used to prevent binding when cutting with a handsaw is to taper the blade. Looking at a cross section of a tapered blade, you can see that the blade is a uniform thickness just above the teeth and then quickly begins to taper up toward the back. Most modern handsaws that you find in a hardware store or home center are not taper ground you generally have to pick up an older saw to find this useful feature. Most handsaws have one of two handle styles: open or closed grip. Another common handle style is the turned or round handle common to coping, fret, and gent's saws. The type of grip you choose is a matter of personal taste. Whichever style you choose, go with a wood handle, as it's easy to shape and mold to fit your hand. It's surprising how many woodworkers are reluctant to modify a handle to better fit their hand. I always consider any "one size fits all" handle as a suggested starting point for shaping it to better fit my hand. Give it try: You'll be surprised what a big difference a custom-fit handle will make.
Open grip
An open grip (or pistol grip) can be found on some back and dovetail saws like the one shown in the top photo. I personally find this style of handle very comfortable, because it doesn't crunch my fingers like some closed grips do. If you've got large hands, you may find this grip more comfortable.
Closed grip
Closed grips are more common than open grips. They're generally more rugged and less easily damaged. A closed grip saw also affords a slightly more rigid grip, especially if you frequently twist a saw to correct for a crooked cut.
COMPARATIVE LENGTHS
Rip saws are generally the longest of handsaws, with crosscut saws the next longest. Shorter versions of crosscut saws (commonly referred to as panel saws) range between 20" and 22". Back saws average around 12" to 14" in length.
PROTECTING TEETH
For a saw to really function well. the teeth need to be sharp and stay sharp. Without some form of protection, the teeth can quickly dull if a saw is tossed into a toolbox or dropped into a tool well. Here are three simple ways to protect the teeth of your saws.
Garden hose
For large saws (like a crosscut or rip saw), the easiest way to protect the teeth is to cover them with a short length of garden hose. You can buy this by the foot at most home centers. Make a slit the full length of the hose with a utility knife, and slip it over the teeth. You may need to temporarily attach the hose to the saw blade with duct tape until the hose straightens out.
Plastic tubing
The teeth on smaller saws are best protected with smaller diameter plastic tubing. Most home centers sell it by the foot. Just slit the tubing along its length and slip it over the teeth.
Report binders
For even smaller saws, such as a back or dovetail saw, the plastic spine from a report binder does a good job of protecting the teeth. These can be found at any office supply store and slip easily over the teeth.
Thanks for reading Saw Terminology. Please share...!
