Block Planes

Posted by Easy WoodCraft on

Sep 12, 2016

Of all the hand planes in my shop, the one I reach for most often is my block plane. That's because it's so handy for fitting joints, trimming parts,

and planing a delicate detail like a chamfer or round over on a table top. Block planes typically run between 5" and 6V2" in length and were originally designed to plane ornery end grain. Many woodworkers mistakenly believe that the reason a block plane handles end grain so well is that the blade is at a much lower angle than a standard planes. True, the blade is much lower (roughly 20 versus 45 degrees for a standard bench plane), but the effective angle is virtually the same.

Why? The blade on a block plane is installed bevel up instead of bevel down (as on a standard plane). When you add the typical 25 degree bevel that's ground onto the blade to the 20 degree blade angle, you end up at 45 degrees.

So why does a block plane work better on end grain? First, the lower blade angle allows for a one handed grip that puts the hand, elbow, and shoulder in line this creates a much more effective thrust. Second, since the bevel is up (and there's no need for a frog), the blade can rest firmly on the bed of the body, so it's fully supported virtually all the way up to the cutting edge. This excellent support, combined with an efficient stroke, allows a block plane to cleanly sever wood fibers without chatter or tear out.

There are two main types of block planes available today: a standard block plane and a low-angle block plane. As discussed earlier, the blade on a standard block plane rests on the body at about 20 degrees this creates an effective angle of 45 degrees.

Low-angle block plane

The blade on a low angle block plane rests on the bed at about 12 degrees. Combined with a 25 degree bevel, this yields an effective cutting angle of approximately 37 to 38 degrees. You wouldn't think that 12 degrees would make much difference, but it does. I've found that a well sharpened low angle block plane will generally outperform its higher angle cousin. My block plane of choice is the Record 6OV2. It fits well in both my apron pocket and my hand. If you have smaller hands, you may find the Stanley 60 1/2 more to your liking; it's about 1/4" narrower than the Record.

KNUCKLE-JOINT BLOCK PLANES

An interesting aside to the evolution of the block plane is the knuckle joint plane, introduced by Stanley in 1888. Virtually identical to a Stanley No. 9, these block planes had a longer lever cap screw and a unique hinged lever cap known as the knuckle joint. This plane was designed to provide a more comfortable one handed grip. The smooth top of the cap, along with the absence of a protruding mechanism, helps this plane nest comfortably into the palm of your hand. If you're fortunate enough to stumble across one at a yard sale or auction (and the price is right), snap it up.

Adjustable throat

Another feature to look for in a block plane, in addition to an adjustable throat, is a depth-adjustment mechanism. You want one that works well and is comfortable. The middle photo shows three common methods for adjusting depth. At top in the photo is a standard block plane with a horizontal "disc" or wheel that's turned to raise or lower the blade. Below this is my personal favorite (common on low-angle block planes), an in-line knurled knob that's rotated to adjust depth. And finally, even though it's a nuisance to adjust, I've got a wood-body block plane that feels nice in my hand; to adjust the depth, you tap on the metal cap on the back of the body to raise the blade, and on the front of the body to lower the blade.

Grips

There are three common grips I use with a block plane: light, heavy, and reverse. The grip I use most is the light grip. The plane nestles in the hand while the fingers wrap around it with the index finger pressing down on the throat-plate lock knob. This grip works well for most trimming and fine tuning jobs.

Although I don't often use a block plane to remove a lot of wood, a heavier grip comes in handy every now and then. For this grip, I use two hands to guide the plane. This works especially well when planing end grain, since you want firm pressure to prevent chatter.

Reverse grip

Just like a Japanese plane (see Japanese Plane), you may find that you have more control over a block plane if you reverse it in your hand. This grip lets you pull the plane instead of pushing it. I often use this grip when chamfering edges or making a final pass on an edge of a work-piece.

A hybrid of the heavy and reverse grips is to use both hands to pull the plane. One hand grasps the throatplate lock knob to pull the plane, while the other hand wraps around the body of the plane in a reverse grip to guide it through the cut. If you skew the plane body slightly, you'll find that this modified grip works extremely well on end grain.

A PLANE "KIT"

I bought my first plane when I was 14. It was a knock-off of a Stanley No. 4½" that I picked up at Warners hardware store in downtown Minneapolis. Man, was I excited to get home and use it. After I pulled it out of the box and clamped a piece of scrap wood to my bench, I gleefully made my first pass. Ugh! What a disappointment it tore up the edge, and shavings jammed up under the blade and cap iron. Must be me, I thought: Maybe I'm not using it right or I don't have it adjusted properly.

As you might suspect, this was my first lesson in the school of hard knocks on hand tools, particularly planes. What I'd really purchased was a plane "kit." Little did I know then that an afternoon of "tweaking" would have produced a tool capable of creating perfect shavings.

My point is, almost every plane you buy needs some serious fine-tuning before it will function properly. Fortunately, this isn't difficult (see Tuning A Hand Plane for tuning a jack/jointer plane and Tuning A Block Plane for tuning a block plane). As a matter of fact, you may find it quite enjoyable. It's a great way to spend a rainy afternoon in the shop.

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