Posted by
Easy WoodCraft on
Jan 30, 2017
A beading tool is sort of a hybrid between a scraper and a plane (
foreground in photo). They're often confused with beading planes (
background in photo), like my Stanley No. 50, that have molded cutters sharpened like plane blades. To make things even more confusing, this particular beading tool looks a lot like a spokeshave (
see Corner Shisels). A beading tool is designed to hold a variety of cutters to create beads, reeds, flutes, grooves, and other decorative edges. Since they're slow-cutting and work well only with the grain, these have been superseded by the portable router. So it might surprise you to learn that they are still being made. The beading tool shown here is made by Lie-Nielsen Toolworks (
www.lie-nielsen.com) and is a reproduction of the old Stanley No. 66.
So if the beading tool has been replaced by the router, why is it still being made? Nostalgia? The answer is that this classic tool still outperforms its modern counterpart in two important ways.
First, the small "sole" of the tool allows you to easily follow a three-dimensional curve (such as a cabriole leg), where the larger base of a router can't travel. Second, you can make your own cutters to match antique molding or create your own, for that matter.
A beading tool is similar to a cabinet scraper in that the cutter rests against the body at a preset angle and is held in place with one or more retaining screws (right drawing). Quality beading tools come with one or more fences that help guide the cutter along the edge of the work-piece.
Selecting the cutter
To use a beading tool, start by selecting the desired cutter. Loosen the knurled knob and slide the cutter in place (
right photo). If you can't find the profile you're looking for, Lie-Nielsen supplies blanks with the tool so you can grind any profile you want (technically the negative of the profile you want). Just make sure to flatten the back of the cutter just as you would a plane blade, and then sharpen the profile with slipstones or diamond hones.
Adjusting the cutter
Once you've got the cutter installed, you can adjust it (
right photo). If the cutter is small, you can adjust it for a full cut from the start. For larger cutters, I recommend setting it so just the first 1/16" or so protrudes, and then make a few passes. Then lower the cutter an additional 1/16" and repeat until the full profile is reached. You'll also want to adjust the fence or fences to position the cutter on the work-piece at the correct starting point.
Basic use
The big thing to keep in mind when using a beading tool is patience. Even when sharpened correctly, these tools are very slow-cutting. Relax and take your time. Enjoy watching the profile slowly take shape. For your first couple of passes, take it easy on the downward pressure (
right photo). Let the tool begin the cut. Once it's clearly started, apply gentle pressure and keep the tool moving.
SHOP-MADE SCRATCH STOCK
Home-made beading tools or "scratch stocks" could be found in every cabinetmaker's toolbox in the past.Although they took a lot longer to use, they were a lot less expensive than a molding plane, and a new cutter could be made in a short while.
A scratch stock is basically just a handle with a kerf cut in it to accept a cutter. Screws pass through the kerfed portion of the stock to pinch the cutter in place (
right drawing). These are very easy to make and can be a lot of fun to use. NOTE: To hold the cutter as securely as possible, I suggest using machine screws that pass through the body; then thread on nuts.
Making your own cutter
You can make your own cutter from an old scraper blade or broken saw blade. Just draw out the negative of the profile you're after and grind or file away the waste (right photo). Make sure to flatten the back of the cutter and hone the edge sharp with slipstones.
Basic use
Since the cutter for a scratch stock is a scraper, you'll have to tilt it to find the correct cutting angle (
right photo). Pivot the stock until cutting action begins. Just as with a beading took use little downward pressure at first and take light cuts. As the profile begins to take shape, apply gentle pressure and take your time.
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First, the small "sole" of the tool allows you to easily follow a three-dimensional curve (such as a cabriole leg), where the larger base of a router can't travel. Second, you can make your own cutters to match antique molding or create your own, for that matter.
A scratch stock is basically just a handle with a kerf cut in it to accept a cutter. Screws pass through the kerfed portion of the stock to pinch the cutter in place (right drawing). These are very easy to make and can be a lot of fun to use. NOTE: To hold the cutter as securely as possible, I suggest using machine screws that pass through the body; then thread on nuts.
