For smoothing surface sanding papers and sanders are ideal. There are a number of different types of sanding paper, some suitable for specific materials, some more long lasting than others. A sanding block makes working on flat surfaces easier and a sanding attachment for an electric drill, takes the hard work out of some jobs but is not as powerful as a specially designed sander.
Choosing an adhesive will depend on the size of the job, what material is being glued to the timber and whether it will be in use indoors or outside.
As wood constantly expands and contracts fillers must be able to cope with this, particularly outdodrs, where conditions are most extreme.
1. Flap wheel sander attachment, 2. Plastic wood in tube, 3. Wood stopping, 4. Plastic wood in tin, 5. PVA adhesive, 6. Waterproof PVA, 7. and 8. Alternative PVA adhesives.
Abrasive papers
These are mainly sold in sheets with the grade or grit size marked on the back. There are thre common grades, coarse, medium and fine, but others are also available. Abrasive papers also come in shapes to fit power sanders and drill attachments. On a surface in poor condition start with a coarse grade and finish with the fines one.
Glasspaper, Wears quickly but in-expensive.
Garnet paper, Ideal for finishing wood.
Wet or dry paper, Used wet to rub down painted surfaces. It can also be used to clean metals.
Emery, Used mainly for cleaning or polishing metal.
Tungsten carbide, Long lasting and hard abrasive.
Sanding block, Abrasive paper can be wrapped around a block of cork or wood to make sanding flat surfaces easier and more accurate.
Glasspaper, Wears quickly but in-expensive.
Garnet paper, Ideal for finishing wood.
Wet or dry paper, Used wet to rub down painted surfaces. It can also be used to clean metals.
Emery, Used mainly for cleaning or polishing metal.
Tungsten carbide, Long lasting and hard abrasive.
Sanding block, Abrasive paper can be wrapped around a block of cork or wood to make sanding flat surfaces easier and more accurate.
Power sanders
Sanding attachments for electric drill. Circular sanding discs are used over a rubber backing pad to sand wood, plastic or metal but they produce wave type marks. They are most suitable for removing old paint. The alernative is a flap wheel sander which has a slower, gentler action and does not produce the marks.
Orbital sander A strip of abrasive paper is slotted on to the base and moves at high speed in a series of orbits to provide a smooth finish.
Belt sander These are ideal for sanding floors. Usually fitted with a dust collection bag, they are large, powerfull sanders that need two hands and are usually hired.
Orbital sander A strip of abrasive paper is slotted on to the base and moves at high speed in a series of orbits to provide a smooth finish.
Belt sander These are ideal for sanding floors. Usually fitted with a dust collection bag, they are large, powerfull sanders that need two hands and are usually hired.
Adhesives
In most cases, when working with wood, you can use a PVA (polyvinyl acetate) adhesive especially designed for sticking timber. This will bond wood to wood and wood to many other materials. Wipe surplus glue away with a wet rag before it sets. Where the joint might get hot or cold or be subjected to moisture, it is important to use one sold for outdoor purpose.
PVA is also suitable for use when adding a veneer but if you are fitting a plastic laminate to wood - a kitchen or bathroom worktop for instance - you should use a contract adhesive. Some of these allow some movement before the glue sets so you can get a perfect match, others set instantly on contract so are more difficult to use in this case.
Fillers
Outdoor cracks between wood and brickwork, Gaps around doors and windows should be filled during dry weather. Mastic fillers are available for deep cracks of this sort. Pack very deep gaps first with newspaper, leaving a gap of 10-15mm (3/8 - 5/8 in) for the filler.
Cracks in wood joints, In this sort of gap, in window frames for example, again use a mastic outdoors. Indoors use a general purpose filler that allows for some movement.
Holes and cracks in unpainted wood, For small holes and cracks in unpainted wood use wood stopping. This comes in different shades to match different timbers. Apply with a knife until just proud of the surface then leave to dry, which will not take long. When dry, sand flush with the surface. You may have to apply two layers to fill a large hole.
Cracks in wood joints, In this sort of gap, in window frames for example, again use a mastic outdoors. Indoors use a general purpose filler that allows for some movement.
Holes and cracks in unpainted wood, For small holes and cracks in unpainted wood use wood stopping. This comes in different shades to match different timbers. Apply with a knife until just proud of the surface then leave to dry, which will not take long. When dry, sand flush with the surface. You may have to apply two layers to fill a large hole.
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