Joint, glue and clamp the boards selected for the top and set aside. Next, fashion the legs.
Rip and joint the leg stock to 1" X 1", and draw the tapers on the front and side of each leg. At the base of the apron, these two faces measure the full 1" X 1". At the floor, the legs measure 9/16"X 9/16". Then cut the tapers on the band saw, keeping the blade well to the waste sides of the taper lines. Finish the taper with a hand plane, while holding the stock in a vise.
The table's dainty turned foot is blended into the flat, tapered sides.
Next, center the leg stock so that it can be loaded into the lathe prior to turning the feet. On the narrow end of each leg, this is simply a matter of drawing diagonals across the end grain. On the other end of the leg, however, finding the center is a bit more complicated because you don't want the actual center of the 1"X 1" end grain square. What you do want is the center of the 9/16" X 9/16" end grain square directly in line with the square on the opposite end of the leg. To find this, draw a square measuring 9/16" X 9/16" on the end grain with two sides of that square directly on top of what will become the outside edges of that leg. Draw diagonals on this square to find the center.
Then mount the leg in the lathe. In order to eliminate the fraying of corners that can occur when a round shape is turned immediately adjacent to a square shape along the length of a turned part, relieve the four corners of the leg with a knife just above the turned foot. Blend this cut into the round tip of the leg with a lathe tool. Finally, clean up with a chisel, knife and sandpaper.
The thin contrasting band inlay adds the perfect touch to this tabletop.
Next, cut the mortises that will receive the tenons on the ends of the apron parts and drawer rails. Set these so that the outside faces of the apron parts are recessed 1/8" from the outside faces of the legs. Set the drawer rails, however, so that their outside faces are flush with the outside faces of the legs. When the mortises are fit, assemble the table frame. Next, install drawer runners and kicker strips. Fit the kicker strips with oversized holes, through which screws will pass into the top. The oversized holes allow for expansion and contraction across the width of the top in response to seasonal changes in humidity.
Next, make the drawer. Construction is standard, with through dovetails at the back and half-blind dovetails at the front.
After leveling and smoothing the top (see Making The TV Riser), the top and drawer front are inlaid. This process, which is covered in chapter seventeen, is built around the capabilities of the hollow-ground planer blade.
Affix the top to the table frame, turn a pull from a bit of cherry scrap, and sand and finish the table.
A strip of cherry is inlaid across the width of the drawer's curly maple front. Similarly, a strip of curly maple is inlaid across the width of the table's cherry top. Note the peg driven into the tenon of the drawer rail below the drawer front.
Materials List :
Table
A.
Top
1
pc
11/16 x 14 5/8 x 24 1/2
B.
Apron side
2
pcs
13/16 x 14 11/16 x 11 3/8
C.
Apron back
1
pc
13/16 x 14 11/16 x 18
D.
Drawer rail
2
pcs
13/16 x 1 x 18 *
E.
Leg
4
pcs
1 x 1 x 22
F.
Drawer runner
2
pcs
13/16 x 1 x 9 7/8
G.
Kicker strip
2
pcs
13/16 x 1 x 9 7/8
H.
Inlay
2
pcs
3/32 x 3/32 x 14 5/8
I.
Screw
various
Drawer
J.
Front
1
pc
15/16 x 3 x 16 7/16
K.
Side
2
pcs
1/2 x 3 x 10
L.
Back
1
pc
1/2 x 2 1/2 x 16 7/16
M.
Bottom
1
pc
1/2 x 9 5/8 x 15 15/16
N.
Pull
1
pc
5/8 x 1 1/4
O.
Inlay
2
pc
3/32 x 3/32 x 3
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* Includes ¾" tenons on either end.
* These are net measurements. Surplus should be added to dovetailed parts to allow them to be sanded flush.
* Includes ¾" tenons on either end.
* These are net measurements. Surplus should be added to dovetailed parts to allow them to be sanded flush.
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