The Inspiring of WoodCraft

Planes And Surforms

Designed for removing unwanted portions of wood and reducing timber to size, plus shaping it and leaving it smooth and flat, planes need to be kept sharp. The edge should be parallel with, and just protruding from, the base plate when in use. The longer the piece of wood to be worked on, the longer the plane should be so that it levels out the length rather than following the wood's profile.
Planes-and-surforms
1. Smoothing plane, 2 and 3. Surforms, 4. Jack plane, 5. Replaceable-blade plane, 6. Power planer.
Types of plane
Bench plane, This is designed for smoothing edges of wood with the grain and comes in a number of sizes. The one with the longest sole plate,a jointer plane, is just under 600mm (23in) long, a jack plane is 350-375mm (14-15in) and a smoothing plane is 200-300mm (8-9in).
Block plane, Smaller than a bench plane, a block plane is useful for working on small pieces of timber, for smoothing end grain and for trimming plastic laminates. It has a sole plate of 140-180mm (5½-7in) and can be used with one hand, although two hands are usually used when trimming end grain.
Replaceable-blade place, This can be used with a number of different types of blade and is a good choice for people who do not have sharpening equipment. It can be used in the same way as a bench plane, and is usually slightly longer and narrower than a smoothing plane.
Surform, This tool does not give the same smooth finish as a plane but it is a quick and easy way to remove material from wood plus soft metals, plastics and laminates.
Power planer, If you do a lot of planing this takes the hard work out of the job. They also cut rebates.
Special purpose planes, There are also planes for making rebates, for cutting grooves, for cleaning tenons and for planing curves.
Sharpening Planes
New planes need to be sharpened and all planes should be checked before they are used. You will require a medium or fine oilstone which you should keep in a box with sides slightly shallower than the stone to allow the blade to run off the stone edge. Use oil or paraffin on the stone and wipe with a soft cloth or kitchen roll frequently to keep clean.
A blade has a grinding angle of 25° and a sharpening or honing angle of 30° (increase to 38° when planing manmade boards). New blades some with the 25° bevel on the front edge but need sharpening. Use a honing guide to help you maintain the correct angle and rub the blade, bevel side down, backwards and forwards along the length of the stone until a burr of metal builds up along the edge. Then reverse the blade, laying it flat on the stone, and rub backwards and forwards a few times to remove the burr or bend it back. Check the sharpness on paper; when sharp it will make a clean cut.
Using planes
Planing long lengths of wood, When planing along the grain of a length of wood apply alightly more pressure at the front of the plane. Each stroke should be the whole length of the wood.
Planing edges, When planing long edges with a bench plane hold the plane down with the thumb of your second hand and use your fingers as a guide along the side. Always work along the grain.
On a short edge, When using a block plane work from each edge towards the centre, again using your fingers as a guide.
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