Posted by
Easy WoodCraft on
Jun 27, 2016
Hacksaw
A hacksaw in a woodshop? You bet. I often incorporate metal parts in many of the jigs, fixtures, and projects I build. And Murphy's Law says the carriage bolt or threaded knob I want to use will be too long. A hacksaw, with its fine teeth and hardened steel blade, will make short work of cutting through bolts, screws, even hinges. Choose blades with fine teeth for cutting through thin, hard metals and coarser teeth for softer materials like aluminum, which tend to clog the finer teeth.
Miter saw
For the most part, miter saws like the one shown in the middle photo have been replaced in the woodworking shop by the power miter saw. Miter saws are, naturally, designed to fit in a miter box; they're basically long back saws with crosscut teeth. If the blade is well sharpened and there's no play in the guides, this type of setup works well. Unfortunately, there's usually a problem with either the saw or the guides and so these can be used only for rough work.
Compass saw
The compass saw, or keyhole saw has also generally been replaced by its electric cousins, the saber saw and jigsaw. Since this type of saw has no frame and a thin tapered blade, it can be used to make cuts where other saws can't. On the downside, with no frame and a thin, tapered blade, this saw is highly prone to bending and kinking in use. The only way to prevent this is to make light, non-rigorous cuts.
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